Edinburgh’s winter Castle of Light
By Simon “The Bruce” Walton
There is something about winter in Edinburgh that makes the city feel like it has been purpose-built for the season. As the nights draw in, the capital shrugs on a cloak of cold air and candle-lit romance.
A haar may drift in from the Forth, softening the skyline into a byline of fairy-tale silhouettes, diffusing the definition
between sea and land, but amid that peculiarly Scottish frosty fog, the famous Castle remains, unmoved above it all, like a night eagle, perched on its granite eyrie.
Below, the the streets buzz with life. In the enveloping darkness, shop windows glow invitingly along Princes Street, the number 37 bus climbs Leith Street like a tiny cable car halfway to the stars, and even the pigeons seem to flap about with festive determination.
The sounds of the market stalls and funfair rides waft up the sheer Castle Rock - a natural foil to the built fortification that has, for centuries, denied all but a rebel brigade, by order of Robert the Bruce, who reclaimed the Castle from an English garrison in 1314 - “reclaimed” is, as may be imagined, a polite way of putting it. We’re moved to check over the ramparts, just to make sure that noise was the clink of mugs at the hot chocolate stand, and not a carless caress of claymore on the sturdy outer walls..
The Castle above is the anchor of all the history, myths and legends. A brooding guardian, built from volcanic rock and ancient stories. In winter, it feels more like a sentinel than a tourist attraction. Its ramparts catch the last light of afternoon, and its cannon-lined terraces cool quickly under the crisp evening sky. There are cities that celebrate summer. Edinburgh is among them - with its fabulous International Festival. Yet, as the northern days draw short, Edinburgh warms up again to celebrate winter.
And for every year since 2020, that winter celebration has had a bright, sparking, flashing, shimmering performance to pixelate even the coolest of chill evenings. Scotland’s most iconic stronghold turns itself into the country’s largest animated artwork amid an armada of arc lights. The Castle of Light returns, roaring into the retinas of thousands of visitors, all wide eyed in the breathtaking brilliance.
A flick of the switch – and the Castle wakes
Last year, the countdown began with star players from Edinburgh Rugby and Scotland squads stepping up as guest illuminators. No minor celebs here. Brains and brawn to heave the ceremonial switch that’s as heavy set as Mons Meg cannon itself. With a front row flourish, they heave the switches to bathe the fortress in a shimmering, shifting, and at times dizzying display of laser-powered illuminations.
The rugged stone becomes a castle-textured tableau, a living stockade of rock (with apologies to sticks of rock), bursting into bravehearts and lionhearts. Yes, a proper Scottish lion rampant - heraldic accuracy stretching a point - but with proper fire. If the lion of Scotland’s regal standard were ever more than mythical, surely he would have been stationed at Edinburgh Castle, and his standard-bearing unicorn too. For this night, the Di’el can take heraldic accuracy. That fiery breath is always very welcome on a predictably chilly night, and if the rain may come, well, what better way to dry off than in that furnace maw.
The show promises “fire and ice”, and by turns it delivers both - lava hot projections and glacial bursts of colour rolling across the battlements. The Castle’s origin story is here too: forged by volcanic fury and endurance, retold in light, shadow, and soaring soundscapes. Historic scenes ripple across the walls like banners caught in a digital gale. Plenty more down to earth refreshments (with an emphasis on hot beverages) are readily available.
Night at the Castle — but maybe not as history records
Ventured deeper into the Castle, all given a new perspective when bathed in darkness. The Great Hall offers some new, nighttime surprises. The Ice Queen herself — far more regal than frosty — presides over a hall of crystalline magic. Children gasp. Adults upgrade their gasping to astonished muttering. Somewhere between fantasy and folklore, the centuries-old fortress finds itself hosting a party that
is entirely modern yet rooted in legend.
Outside, another winged lion (bearing ever so slight a resemblance to a dragon) soars over the topmost ramparts. Projections turn the ancient walls into a moving mural of Scotland’s stories. Around us, 4,700 lucky opening-weekend visitors move in gentle wonder, guided through illuminated passageways usually closed once darkness falls. Edinburgh below twinkled with its own light show — the city a carpet of diamonds at our feet - perhaps set alight by that soaring, fire-breathing guardian.
Whatever reservations one might have about injecting digital wizardry into ancient stones are dispelled almost immediately. Castle of Light is no gimmick. It is an exhilarating conversation between history and imagination — and imagination gets some of the best
lines.
Eyes wide, jaws dropped
It’s an annual pilgrimage for me. My party of fully- grown kidults left with eyes wide and jaws dropped — which is quite impressive for a combined age almost as old as the Castle itself. The installations are fantastical, beautiful, thoughtful and humane. No digital unicorns were harmed in the making of the show. The Castle celebrates Scotland’s resilience, creativity and myth-making instinct. From up here, looking down on the medieval to modern, standing side by side, it’s proof that a city steeped in deep history does not need to stay still.
Descending back into the city streets — resisting the urge to slide down the Castle Rock like Rob Roy — Edinburgh’s festive pulse carries you onward. The night may be cold, the pavements sparkled with frost, but the magic of the city’s darkness turns every double decker bus into a magical lightship, poised to suddenly lift off on an interstellar journey - or just to the suburbs and a warm hearth. Perhaps it’s the headiness of a visit to the Castle of Light. It makes reality feel just a little more magical. Edinburgh in
winter does the rest.
Firmly on the festive fixtures. Edinburgh Castle sleeps by day. Yet, by night, for seven enchanting weeks, it dreams in colour, and invites you to dream along too.
Getting to Edinburgh
Edinburgh is well-served by rail, road, and air — whether you arrive into Waverley station in the heart of the city or sweep in from the airport on the tram. Most visitors will make their way to the Castle by walking the Royal Mile: uphill, yes, but lined with cafés, tartan temptations, and historical curiosities to keep spirits high. At the top, turn onto Castlehill and continue through the esplanade gates.
Comfortable footwear recommended. Do not attempt to scale the Castle Rock like Rob Roy — no matter how much the that fire-breathing lion encourages you. Edinburgh Castle is managed by managed by Historic Environment Scotland (www.historicenvironment.scot)
and is open every day except 25 and 26 December.